Transforming market opportunities for bilum weavers
How can we transform market opportunities for bilum weavers in PNG? This question drove a two-year project, delivered in collaboration with Ruth Choulai and Jane Ravusiro from Abt Associates, with support from the Australian Government though the PNG-Australia Partnership.
When we were invited to play a role in strengthening this value chain we knew the privilege we were being invited into. Bilum is a world in itself. The stories of the weavers: the injustice, the resistance. The artform: the colours, the cultural knowledge. The community that spreads from PNG to Australia and throughout the globe: Once you go bilum, you can’t go back.
What was the opportunity?
Bilum weaving is an ancient artform in PNG, made modern by today’s artisan weavers who capture the spirit, art, and culture of the country’s many regions.
In the last decade, several fierce PNG and Australian women have broken through multiple barriers to see bilum exported from PNG, and have successfully established the beginnings of a female-controlled value chain that is centring women’s economic and cultural empowerment.
Despite this progress, at the beginning of this project, most of the bilum businesses in this value chain were not financially sustainable. These businesses were not paying for founders’ time, nor other costs like rent, and it was starting to impact cashflow and people’s energy.
Something needed to change.
Our approach
In consultation with Ruth Choulai and Jane Ravusiro from Abt Associates, who brought a deep understanding of creative and cultural industries in PNG, we agreed to focus on three key areas:
1. Unlocking market opportunities
When trying to grow a market for export, people often try to attract more buyers in order to grow sales. However, we understood that the bilum value chain had been successful because trust had been built between parties over many years, and importers had a strong commitment to benefit weavers. As a result, we decided to work with existing parties who had the potential to grow their businesses, rather then trying to attract new buyers. We also knew that we needed to work with businesses that had the skills to brand bilum and get into high-end markets.
One of the major existing bilum retailers based in Australia is Among Equals. The team had built a strong brand, and deep relationships in PNG. They had a vision for their future, but they needed a ‘think partner’ to sense-check their thinking and challenge them.
We worked with the Among Equals team to identify their ideal business model and growth strategy, which focused on expanding into the international market. Specifically, the team identified an opportunity to sell replicable designs, that could be sold to large wholesalers. They were rightly nervous about this opportunity. It had the potential to provide income to weavers, but it also went against the ethos of bilum, where no two bags are the same. So we travelled together to PNG to interview bilum weavers to understand if they wanted an opportunity to weave ‘replication’ bags or if they wanted to continue to make one-offs. The interviews revealed about half of the weavers were very interested in providing replications. This paved the way for a pilot, where Among Equals worked with weavers and local aggregators to get the quality right.
“The deep dive into the workings of the business have been instrumental in Among Equals succeeding”
– Founder, Caroline Sherman
2. Building the entrepreneurial capability of bilum business owners in PNG
We supported PNG’s ‘Bilum Meri’, Florence Jaukae, to identify a sustainable business model for her annual bilum festival, her bilum aggregator business (which buys bilum bags from thousands of weavers and exports them internationally) and her training business, which provides bilum weaving training. We also coached her on where and how to focus on her various businesses.
Additionally, we conducted a Training Needs Assessment of weavers, which helped to capture weavers’ aspirations for further training and skill development. In these interviews, we asked what the impact of bilum has been on the lives of women weavers. We heard that bilum had helped weavers get out of poverty, pay for school and university fees for their children, and pay for dental work. Bilum had also provided an avenue for their art to be seen by the world, and their voice to be heard.
3. Creating assets that elevated the art of bilum, and that could be used time and time again
We delivered two key assets in partnership with an amazing group of creatives in PNG and Australia, to elevate the art of bilum.
We produced a documentary short film, The Bilum Story, that fiercely portrays the power, determination and pure skill of artisan bilum weavers. The film is a high-end production that is an art form in itself.
Through our creative partners, we also produced branding identities and tags for ten weaver groups across PNG. These brands were designed to elevate the status of the bilum groups and provide an avenue for them to tell their story.
From the bilum branding project:
‘‘Ten distinct logos were developed for the bilum branding project. The logos are inspired by cultural stories unique to each weaver group. Some of these stories are spiritual, some are place-based, others speak to the present-day challenges of urbanisation and their innovative responses.
One logo unites all the weaver groups under one roof. This is ‘Bilum Hauslain’. ’’
Goroka Bilum Weavers:
‘‘This logo unites the Goroka Bilum Weavers through the many different acrylic colours that they weave with. It is inspired by the diversity and chaos of Tumbuna Market.
The criss-crossing shapes communicate the movement and choas of the market and the yellow (known locally as ‘stupid yellow’) stands out against the crowd!’’
‘‘Straight from the marketplace. Colour scattered everywhere. A hectic energy of opportunity that’s like the buzz of coffee.
Women from all corners of PNG gather here. Weaves of every possible palette, design, and personal touch have been trekked over mountain tops, valleys and rushing rivers.
The bilums are laid out before the sun comes up. Full of individual expression, these bilums are bursting with vibrancy and self-ownership.
Bask in the chaos, energy and vitality of this collection and trust your excited eye to find the unique piece that’s perfect for you.’’
Outcomes
The outcomes of this project have been significant.
Our work with Among Equals helped to unlock their entry into the wholesale international market. One year after the project, they successfully launched their new ‘replication’ range in UK Department store Selfridges.
Florence Jaukae (below) was successful in attracting more sponsorship funding for her Goroka Bilum Festival, which has increased its sustainability. She was also successful in winning a major donor contract to provide training to bilum weavers across the country.
The Bilum Story aired on 4 TV stations in PNG, and has been shown at the First Nations Writers Festival in Townsville, and screened by the Lowy Institute in Sydney. Most importantly it has been a source of great pride for the women of bilum.
The branding and tags have helped elevate bilum in the local market and are a favourite of the bilum weavers and customers alike.
There is still much to do to grow bilum internationally and in PNG. But this project shows how a multifaceted, and contextually appropriate approach, can simultaneously improve financial sustainability and have impact on the ground.
Watch The Bilum Story:
How can we transform market opportunities for bilum weavers in PNG? This question drove a two-year project, delivered in collaboration with Ruth Choulai and Jane Ravusiro from Abt Associates, with support from the Australian Government though the PNG-Australia Partnership.
When we were invited to play a role in strengthening this value chain we knew the privilege we were being invited into. Bilum is a world in itself. The stories of the weavers: the injustice, the resistance. The artform: the colours, the cultural knowledge. The community that spreads from PNG to Australia and throughout the globe: Once you go bilum, you can’t go back.
What was the opportunity?
Bilum weaving is an ancient artform in PNG, made modern by today’s artisan weavers who capture the spirit, art, and culture of the country’s many regions.
In the last decade, several fierce PNG and Australian women have broken through multiple barriers to see bilum exported from PNG, and have successfully established the beginnings of a female-controlled value chain that is centring women’s economic and cultural empowerment.
Despite this progress, at the beginning of this project, most of the bilum businesses in this value chain were not financially sustainable. These businesses were not paying for founders’ time, nor other costs like rent, and it was starting to impact cashflow and people’s energy.
Something needed to change.
Our approach
In consultation with Ruth Choulai and Jane Ravusiro from Abt Associates, who brought a deep understanding of creative and cultural industries in PNG, we agreed to focus on three key areas:
1. Unlocking market opportunities
2. Building the entrepreneurial capability of bilum business owners in PNG
3. Creating assets that elevated the art of bilum, and that could be used time and time again.
1. Unlocking market opportunities
When trying to grow a market for export, people often try to attract more buyers in order to grow sales. However, we understood that the bilum value chain had been successful because trust had been built between parties over many years, and importers had a strong commitment to benefit weavers.
As a result, we decided to work with existing parties who had the potential to grow their businesses, rather then trying to attract new buyers. We also knew that we needed to work with businesses that had the skills to brand bilum and get into high-end markets.
One of the major existing bilum retailers based in Australia is Among Equals. The team had built a strong brand, and deep relationships in PNG. They had a vision for their future, but they needed a ‘think partner’ to sense-check their thinking and challenge them.
We worked with the Among Equals team to identify their ideal business model and growth strategy, which focused on expanding into the international market. Specifically, the team identified an opportunity to sell replicable designs, that could be sold to large wholesalers. They were rightly nervous about this opportunity. It had the potential to provide income to weavers, but it also went against the ethos of bilum, where no two bags are the same.
So we travelled together to PNG to interview bilum weavers to understand if they wanted an opportunity to weave ‘replication’ bags or if they wanted to continue to make one-offs. The interviews revealed about half of the weavers were very interested in providing replications. This paved the way for a pilot, where Among Equals worked with weavers and local aggregators to get the quality right.
“The deep dive into the workings of the business have been instrumental in Among Equals succeeding”
– Founder, Caroline Sherman
2. Building the entrepreneurial capability of bilum business owners in PNG
We supported PNG’s ‘Bilum Meri’, Florence Jaukae [centre, right], to identify a sustainable business model for her annual bilum festival, her bilum aggregator business (which buys bilum bags from thousands of weavers and exports them internationally) and her training business, which provides bilum weaving training. We also coached her on where and how to focus on her various businesses.
Additionally, we conducted a Training Needs Assessment of weavers, which helped to capture weavers’ aspirations for further training and skill development. In these interviews, we asked what the impact of bilum has been on the lives of women weavers.
We heard that bilum had helped weavers get out of poverty, pay for school and university fees for their children, and pay for dental work. Bilum had also provided an avenue for their art to be seen by the world, and their voice to be heard.
3. Creating assets that elevated the art of bilum, and that could be used time and time again
We delivered two key assets in partnership with an amazing group of creatives in PNG and Australia, to elevate the art of bilum.
We produced a documentary short film, The Bilum Story, that fiercely portrays the power, determination and pure skill of artisan bilum weavers. The film is a high-end production that is an art form in itself.
Through our creative partners, we also produced branding identities and tags for ten weaver groups across PNG. These brands were designed to elevate the status of the bilum groups and provide an avenue for them to tell their story.
From the bilum branding project:
‘‘Ten distinct logos were developed for the bilum branding project. The logos are inspired by cultural stories unique to each weaver group. Some of these stories are spiritual, some are place-based, others speak to the present-day challenges of urbanisation and their innovative responses.
One logo unites all the weaver groups under one roof. This is ‘Bilum Hauslain’. ’’
Swing tag design and text:
‘‘The swing tags feature each weaver group’s logo on the front, and on the reverse-side, poetic text offers a sensory journey to the place they call home. We visit the sights, and sounds of each weaver community and hear some of their stories. The research that Florence and Ruth gathered on the atmospheres and stories of each location, was central to the process of crafting and refining this text.’’
Goroka Bilum Weavers:
‘‘This logo unites the Goroka Bilum Weavers through the many different acrylic colours that they weave with. It is inspired by the diversity and chaos of Tumbuna Market.
The criss-crossing shapes communicate the movement and choas of the market and the yellow (known locally as ‘stupid yellow’) stands out against the crowd!’’
‘‘Straight from the marketplace. Colour scattered everywhere. A hectic energy of opportunity that’s like the buzz of coffee.
Women from all corners of PNG gather here. Weaves of every possible palette, design, and personal touch have been trekked over mountain tops, valleys and rushing rivers.
The bilums are laid out before the sun comes up. Full of individual expression, these bilums are bursting with vibrancy and self-ownership.
Bask in the chaos, energy and vitality of this collection and trust your excited eye to find the unique piece that’s perfect for you.’’
‘‘This logo uses the simbuta (the baby bilum) as the main symbol.
It’s the ‘womb’ of the whole project. The ‘mother brand’ under which all hauslains work together united.
The bright bold colours communicate the passion, courage and flair of the women who weave bilum.’’
Outcomes
The outcomes of this project have been significant.
Our work with Among Equals helped to unlock their entry into the wholesale international market. One year after the project, they successfully launched their new ‘replication’ range in UK Department store Selfridges.
Florence Jaukae (right) was successful in attracting more sponsorship funding for her Goroka Bilum Festival, which has increased its sustainability. She was also successful in winning a major donor contract to provide training to bilum weavers across the country.
The Bilum Story aired on 4 TV stations in PNG, and has been shown at the First Nations Writers Festival in Townsville, and screened by the Lowy Institute in Sydney. Most importantly it has been a source of great pride for the women of bilum.
The branding and tags have helped elevate bilum in the local market and are a favourite of the bilum weavers and customers alike.
There is still much to do to grow bilum internationally and in PNG. But this project shows how a multifaceted, and contextually appropriate approach, can simultaneously improve financial sustainability and have impact on the ground.